Heart Pixel Art Square - Free Crochet Pattern (2024)

This is a free crochet pattern for how to crochet a farmhouse inspired Valentine’s heart quilt using solid granny squares.

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Heart Pixel Art Square - Free Crochet Pattern (1)

I have had this Heart Pixel Art Square on my mind for a while, so when I started brainstorming what I wanted to share in the month of January, and had Valentine’s on my brain, I knew it was the perfect time to make this square happen.

Though a little time consuming, pixel art projects are so fun! I think I like most that it kind of resembles a quilt, but also that it uses my favorite join-as-you method – the Pull Loop Through Method! Makes for an easy join, and no worrying about how to assemble later – can’t say I enjoy sewing squares together. BUT! If you do, you could always make the squares separately, and then use the mattress stitch (or your preferred technique) to join them later.

What can we do with this square? It’s the perfect size for a 16″ throw pillow (see my Acorn Throw Pillow Free Crochet Pattern to see how to do this), use it as an afghan square, and build a blanket, add more squares all around to make a larger blanket, use it as a doily, attach it to a dowel rod, and hang it, use it as the star of the show for a sweater/top, even changing up the weight of yarn used will open doors!

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Materials:

  • 640 Yards of Lightweight #3 Yarn – I used Baby Bee Sweet Delight Yarn in Cloudy [Gray] (210 Yards), and I Love This Sport Weight Yarn in Red (225 Yards), and Cranberry (205 Yards)
  • G6/4mm Crochet Hook
  • Tapestry Needle

Material Notes:

Yarn Alternative: Berroco’s Vintage DK, Stylecraft Special DK (this one has similar colors to those used, I’m thinking Matador, Raspberry and Silver)

If the finished size isn’t essential to you, you can use any weight yarn for this project with respective crochet hook.

Time Spent:

This square took me about 7 hours to complete – I worked about a row a day, including the weaving for that row.

Measurements:

With border, the heart square measures 16″.

Gauge:

First square measures 2″.

Gauge is only essential if your finished project size is. If it’s not, the most important thing is consistent sized squares.

Abbreviations:

  • DC – Double Crochet
  • SC – Single Crochet
  • sc2tog – Single Crochet Two Stitches Together (decrease)
  • PLT – Pull Loop Through (Join)
  • To PLT: After DC, pull up a loop, insert hook from front through the corresponding stitch on MB and pull loop through

Pattern Notes:

The beginning chain 5 counts as a double crochet plus a chain 3, and the beginning chain 2 counts as the first double crochet.

Join to the second chain of the beginning chain, not the first stitch, except in the border – here you’ll join to the first single crochet.

You may work this art piece with a variety of joining methods, but I joined mine using the Pull Loop Through Method, and this pattern will be written as such. If you choose to work all the squares first, and then sew them together, you will need: 34 in Cloudy, 5 in half Cloudy and Red split diagonally, 4 in half Cloudy and Cranberry split diagonally, 9 in Cranberry, and 10 in Red.

In the instructions, I refer to MA, MB and MD. These are the motifs. MA is the current motif you are working on. MB is the first one you join to, MC is skipped and MD is the second one you join to, which is diagonal from MB. I only refer to these motifs in the one and two join instructions. I also mention MC in the bi-colored square instructions. Here, this refers to Main Color.

I highly recommend weaving in your ends as you complete each row, otherwise, at the end you could be left with so many ends, this square may end up in your WIPs bin, instead of being completed.

Work 1 Complete 3” Solid Granny Square in Gray

This square will be the bottom right square of the piece.

Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 5, work (3 DC, chain 3) into the ring 3x, 2 DC into the ring and Join. (12 DC)

R2: Chain 2. Work (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the chain space, [DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space] 3x, DC into the next 2 DCs. Join, and fasten off. (28 DC)

Working with the Join-as-you-Go PLT Method, you will have squares that require one join, and squares that require two joins – these are described below.

To Work Square with 1 Join:

Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 5, work (3 DC, chain 3) into the ring 3x, 2 DC into the ring and Join. (12 DC)

R2: Chain 2. Work 2 DC into the chain space, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MB, chain 1, [(DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, (DC into next stitch of MA, PLT) 3x, (DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MB, chain 1]; 2 DC into the same chain space, [DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space] 2x, DC into the last 2 DCs. Join, and Fasten Off. (28 DC)

Heart Pixel Art Square - Free Crochet Pattern (2)

To Work Square with 2 Joins:

Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 5, work (3 DC, chain 3) into the ring 3x, 2 DC into the ring and Join. (12 DC)

R2: Chain 2. Work 2 DC into the chain space, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MB, chain 1, [(DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, (DC into next stitch of MA, PLT) 3x, (DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MD, chain 1]; [(DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, (DC into next stitch of MA, PLT) 3x, (DC into chain space of MA, PLT) 2x, chain 1, working from behind SC into chain space of MD, chain 1]; 2 DC into the same chain space, [DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space], DC into the last 2 DCs. Join, and Fasten Off. (28 DC)

Heart Pixel Art Square Graph:

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Heart Pixel Art Square - Free Crochet Pattern (3)

Following this chart, continue working solid granny squares and joining them as outlined above. I began with Row 1, and my first completed square being the square closest to the “R1”. The purple line shows that the second square worked (to the left of the 1st) only requires 1 join, as does the 3rd and so on in Row 1. Beginning in Row 2, you will start working with 2 joins. The first square worked of Row 2 (furthest right square) only requires 1 join to the 1st square of Row 1, but each square after requires 2 joins. I worked from the furthest right square of each row all the way to the end of the row, and weaved in my ends at the end of each row.

Bi-colored squares are highlighted in the image. #10, #19, #26, #53 and #55 are half Gray and half Red, while #13, #22, #31, #50, and #52 are half Gray and half Cranberry.

Using the instructions below, work in your bi-colored squares. Take note that Round 1 of each of these is the same as the 3” Bi-Colored Solid Granny Square listed below, but Round 2 varies as they are worked to best suit working in the manner as I have outlined. If you are working them differently, you will need to adjust as best for you.

I am only including Round 1 for the single bi-colored solid granny square. If you are working individual squares and using a different joining method, such as a Single Crochet Join, then you will need to go to my 3” Bi-Colored Solid Granny Square the EyeLoveKnots Way for the complete pattern (two rounds), replacing the main color with the one you will be using.

Round 1 of 3″ Bi-Colored Solid Granny Square:

With MC, Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2, 2 DC into the ring, chain 3, 3 DC into the ring, pull Gray through, [holding Gray over index finger and MC between middle finger and thumb, insert hook under MC to pull up a loop on hook, pull up Gray over hook and complete chain. Move the MC strand behind the Gray strand] 2x, yarn over, insert hook into the ring, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, hold strands the same as before and complete the DC. Move the MC strand to the back, work 2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC over the MC tail, yarn over, insert hook into the ring, yarn over, pull through, hold the strands the same as before, pull over the MC, yarn over and complete the 1st half of the DC, move the MC strand to the back and repeat to complete the 2nd half of the DC, but don’t move the MC strand. Drop Gray, pull through MC to complete 1 chain, chain 2. Join, and fasten off both strands.

Heart Pixel Art Square - Free Crochet Pattern (4)

Squares #12 (#19 & #26) [Gray+Red]:

R2: In Gray, attach slip knot to hook. From behind, SC into the center join of #4 & #5 (#11 & #12; #18 & #19), chain 1, yarn over, insert hook into the 2nd chain space to the left of the one just finished on MA and complete the DC, DC into the same chain space on MA, PLT (into #4, (#11, #25), [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #4, (#11, #25)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #4, (#11, #25)] 2x, chain 1. From behind, SC into the chain space of #11 (#18, #25), chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #11 (#18, #25)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #11 (#18, #25)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT #11 (#18, #25)] 2x. Chain 1. From behind, SC into the chain space of #11 (#18, #25). Pull Red through, and fasten off Gray. Chain 1. 2 DC into the chain space of MA, DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space, DC into the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the chain space, slip stitch to the beginning SC. Fasten off.

Heart Pixel Art Square - Free Crochet Pattern (5)

Squares #13 (#22, & #31) [Gray+Cranberry]:

R2: With Gray, attach slip knot to hook. Chain 2. Yarn over, insert hook into the 2nd chain space to the left of the chain space just finished on MA and complete DC. DC into the same chain space, and the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the next chain space, chain 1. From behind SC into the center join of #5 & #6 (#14 & #15; #23 & #24), chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #5 (#14, #23)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #5 (#14, #23)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #5 (#14, #23)] 2x. Insert hook into the center join of #12 & Row 1 (#21 & Row 2; #30 & Row 3). Pull Cranberry through (counts as SC) with working yarn under the work instead of over as normal to trap underneath , chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #12 (#21, #30)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #12 (#21, #30)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #12 (#21, #30)] 2x, chain 1. From behind, SC into the chain space of #12 (#21, #30), chain 1, 2 DC into the chain space of MA, DC into the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the next chain space. Join to the 1st chain of the beginning chain 2. Fasten off both strands.

Square #50 [Gray+Cranberry]:

R2: With Cranberry, attach slip knot to hook. Chain 2. Yarn over, insert hook into the chain space just finished and complete DC. DC into the same chain space, and the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the next chain space, chain 1. From behind, SC into the center join of #42 & #43, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #42)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #42)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #42)] 2x. Insert hook into the center join of #49 & Row 6. Pull Gray through with working yarn under the work instead of over as normal to trap underneath, and complete the SC, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #49)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #49)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #49) 2x, chain 1. From behind, SC into the chain space of #49, chain 1, 2 DC into the chain space of MA, DC into the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the next chain space. Join to the 1st chain of the beginning chain 2. Fasten off both strands.

Square #53 [Gray+Red]:

R2: With Red, attach slip knot to hook. Chain 2. Yarn over, insert hook into the chain space just finished and complete DC. DC into the same chain space, and the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the next chain space, chain 1. From behind, SC into the center join of #45 & #46, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #45)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #45)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #45)] 2x. Insert hook into the center join of #52 & Row 6. Pull Gray through with working yarn under the work instead of over as normal to trap underneath, and complete the SC, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #52)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #52)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #52) 2x, chain 1. From behind, SC into the chain space of #52, chain 1, 2 DC into the chain space of MA, DC into the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the next chain space. Join to the 1st chain of the beginning chain 2. Fasten off both strands.

Square #52 [Gray+Cranberry]:

R2: In Cranberry, attach slip knot to hook. From behind, SC into the center join of #44 & #45, chain 1, yarn over, insert hook into the chain space just finished on MA and complete the DC, DC into the same chain space on MA, PLT (into #44), [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #44)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #44)] 2x, chain 1. From behind, SC into the center join of #51 & Row 6, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #51)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #46)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #51)] 2x. Pull Gray through, and fasten off Cranberry. From behind, SC into the chain space of #51, chain 1, 2 DC into the chain space of MA, DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space, DC into the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the chain space, slip stitch to the beginning SC. Fasten off.

Square #55 [Gray+Red]:

R2: In Red, attach slip knot to hook. From behind, SC into the center join of #47 & #48, chain 1, yarn over, insert hook into the chain space just finished on MA and complete the DC, DC into the same chain space on MA, PLT (into #47), [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #47)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #47)] 2x, chain 1. From behind, SC into the center join of #54 & Row 6, chain 1, [DC into the chain space on MA, PLT (into #54)] 2x, [DC into the next DC of MA, PLT (into #54)] 3x, [DC into the chain space of MA, PLT (into #54)] 2x. Pull Gray through, and fasten off Red. From behind, SC into the chain space of #54, chain 1, 2 DC into the chain space of MA, DC into the next 3 DCs, (2 DC, chain 3, 2 DC) into the next chain space, DC into the next 3 DCs, 2 DC into the chain space, slip stitch to the beginning SC. Fasten off.

Heart Pixel Art Square - Free Crochet Pattern (6)
Heart Pixel Art Square - Free Crochet Pattern (7)

Border:

With Gray, join yarn to top right corner. Chain 1. [SC in chain space, chain 3, SC in the same chain space, SC into the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces, (SC in the same chain space just worked and the next 8 stitches, SC2tog over both squares chain spaces) 6x, SC into the same chain space just worked and the next 7 stitches] 4x. Join with Red, and fasten off Gray. (315 SC)

R2: With Red, Chain 1. SC into the 1st SC and into the chain space, chain 3, SC into the same chain space, [SC into the next 78 SCs, SC into the chain space, chain 3, SC into the same chain space] 3x, SC into the next 77 SCs. Join with Cranberry, and fasten off Red. (324 SC)

R3: With Cranberry, Chain 1. SC into the 1st 2 SCs and into the chain space, chain 3, SC into the same chain space, [SC into the next 80 SCs, SC into the chain space, chain 3, SC into the same chain space] 3x, SC into the next 78 SCs. Join, and fasten off. (332 SC)

Sew in Final Ends.

Heart Pixel Art Square - Free Crochet Pattern (8)

Please feel free to make and sell your own Heart Pixel Art Square project using this pattern, but please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern, and DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead.

Heart Pixel Art Square - Free Crochet Pattern (9)

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Heart Pixel Art Square - Free Crochet Pattern (2024)

FAQs

What is the easiest square to crochet? ›

Basic granny square patterns are ideal projects for beginners because they are quick to make and use a small amount of yarn. However, they're not only for beginners; crocheters of all skill levels make granny squares because they can be used to assemble more complex projects, like blankets and sweaters.

How to get a crochet pattern for free? ›

Explore the world of free crochet patterns at Crochet.com and transform your yarn into beautiful creations without spending a dime. Shop now and let the art of crochet flourish with our Free Crochet Patterns Collection!

Is it hard to read crochet patterns? ›

It's Not Hard, It's Just New

Learning to read crochet patterns can be especially daunting to new crocheters. On top of learning about yarn, hooks, and stitches, you now have to learn to read what feels like another language. But, the steepest point of this learning curve is at the very beginning.

What is the strongest crochet pattern? ›

Crochet Thermal Stitch is a super dense and one of the thickest crochet stitches. It's worked on two rows simultaneously which gives a double layer and a super thick and sturdy texture. Thermal stitch is the perfect stitch for potholders, bags, coasters or anything where you need extra sturdiness in crochet.

What is the first thing a beginner should crochet? ›

The first thing a beginner should crochet is something simple, like a granny square—or a piece of square fabric made by crocheting in rounds from the center outward. Granny squares are generally easy crochet patterns for beginners and take under an hour to complete.

What is a granny square in crochet? ›

A granny square is a piece of square fabric produced in crochet by working in rounds from the center outward. Granny squares are traditionally handmade as crochet and cannot be manufactured by machine. They resemble coarse lace.

What is the granny square crochet stitch called? ›

Constructed of just three stitches—chain stitch, double crochet stitch and slip stitch—the granny square can be made in a large variety of stitch combinations to create different shapes and sizes—squares, of course, but also circles, triangles, rectangles, pentagons, hexagons, and octagons.

Which is more difficult knitting or crocheting? ›

After learning the basics, many people find crocheting easier than knitting because they don't have to move the stitches back and forth between needles. However, don't take that to mean that knitting requires more skill than crocheting, or is significantly more difficult.

Is it faster to learn to Knit or crochet? ›

This set of data supports the conclusion that crochet is, indeed, faster than knitting. Showing, in fact, that knitting can take 2-3 times as long to produce the same amount of fabric as crochet. Interestingly enough, double crochet seems to be faster than single crochet.

Is there math in crochet? ›

Yes its true… In fact, crochet patterns have an underlying mathematical structure — the pattern created by the regular presence or omission of stitches is the very essence of this art form. The similarities to Base2 math, with its series of 0s and 1s, are obvious.

What is the easiest thing to crochet? ›

What's the easiest crochet project to start with? Small square coasters or dishcloths allow you to practice and learn new stitches with a quick payoff. Simple scarves, baby blankets, and granny square throw blankets are also good choices.

What is the most basic granny square? ›

A basic granny square features the chain stitch and double crochet stitch worked in groups of three. A chain stitchtypically separates each dc cluster from the next. And in each corner space, a set of double crochet clusters are worked, separated by a couple of chain stitches to form a corner ch 2 sp.

What crochet stitch is easiest? ›

Let's start at the very beginning with the crochet chain stitch. It's the most basic and the first one that beginners learn since it's also the first stitch used when starting new crochet patterns. Most crochet patterns start with a certain number of chain stitches, and the rest of the project builds onto them.

What is the easiest crochet size for beginners? ›

Hook Size Recommendation for Beginners

We recommend that beginners buy a set of hooks that include a H-8 5mm hook. It's also worth noting that different types of crochet hooks have different head styles (either tapered or inline), and can be made of many materials (like metal, wood, or acrylic).

References

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